How To Incorporate Sustainability Into Designs...

Did you see this video of the CSF founder talking about sustainability? Really interesting insight into what sustainability can encompass - not just a product's composition, but also its design...

What is the future of traditional textiles skills?

“The people who made these things have nothing else to give except their painstaking work. And now they are collected by people who have everything.”

The parting words of Griff Rhys Jones, from his latest programme, which saw him visiting the north Indian State of Gujurat in search of the area’s famed embroidery skills.

As the ways of the modern world transform ever increasing numbers of peoples and cultures, what will be the fate of the skills developed by these cultures over thousands of years? Should they be promoted? Protected? Revered as things of dedication and beauty, still current in their appeal? Or relegated to museums and books, as things of the past?

©(2011)Offset Warehouse. Hand woven, wholesale Indian fabrics from Offset Warehouse.

The value placed in embroidery and indeed textiles as a whole in India is easy to underestimate.

Throughout this vast country, made up of thousands of variant cultures, tribes and religions, textiles are held in high esteem.  Even today, where fast fashion and global trends have entirely altered the views of the West, Indians have a huge affinity with the textiles their country has produced for centuries.

As a textile designer traveling in India today, it is wonderfully refreshing to get a knowing smile and nod when you tell people what you do. In the UK, the response is more likely to be, ‘What... you knit all day?!’, but an Indian understands your role immediately, almost inevitably we found that they themselves were involved in the textile industry, or have a family member or friend who is, and it is a respected and valued trade.

Textiles are a part of everyday life and consumed in a very different way to the West. Take the traditional man’s lunghi (a rectangle of cloth worn like a sarong), these are simply pieces of cloth, varying in weight, design, colour and embellishment, and their variations in wear are numerous in style and function. The lunghi can be worn long, or tucked up short, as a shawl around the shoulders or to cover the head from the sun. When they wear out or become damaged they can be used around the house, or turned into other, decorative items. There is a daily interaction with textiles in a rawer form and on a scale much greater than in England. And not only an interaction with their consumption but with their production; an Indian knows what has gone into making their traditional cloth, by whom it was made, what materials are and the meanings or stories behind imagery and style.

©(2011)Offset Warehouse. Hand woven, wholesale Indian fabrics from Offset Warehouse.

In many cases the skills to create such fabrics have been passed down generation to generation, with families continuing the trade which was, often in India’s caste system, predetermined for them by birth. But these skills developed over the years in turn require years of practise to learn and maintain them. How will they stand the test of the modern world’s pace of change?

Using the example of Rhys Jones when he visited the Rabari people of Kutch, Gujuat, who practise painstaking hand embroidery, one has to wonder, is this tradition practical or necessary in today’s world? Traditionally the women spend their youth creating clothes, bedspreads and wall hangings for their marriage dowry. Such intricate work takes years and women cannot marry until it is complete. These girls future is in their stitching, not in education or opportunity. And whilst the outcome of their labours is wonderfully beautiful, rich in colour, texture and meaning, one has to question the validity of such dedication as this in today’s world.

©(2011)Offset Warehouse. Hand woven, wholesale Indian fabrics from Offset Warehouse.

When I visited an organisation in the centre of India near Hampi, which sets out to support local women through the selling and promotion of their traditional embroidery, I found myself asking a very similar question. These are Lambani women, their tribe originating in Gujurat and whose work bears strong resemblance to the colourful Rabari work, nomads originally who wore their wealth in elaborate embroidered garments and striking silver jewellery and have continued to hand down the traditional craft.

Providing work for around 100 women in a 30km radius throughout a handful of villages, Kushala Kala Kendra makes use of this skill to create pieces for the Western market and local Indian businesses, ensuring stable work and other community benefits. I was hugely struck by the apparently paradoxical forces at work in these villages and in the women’s sewing. Their embroidery patterns and skills have been passed down for generations from mother to daughter, enabling them to create their dowry pieces and decorate themselves and their homes. The patterns have meaning and history, following that of the tribe itself. Today, life for the Lambani is transformed, they are no longer nomads, nor even in the region of their ancestry and these villages are changing at an ever increasing rate, developing to become part of the modern global communities.

©(2011)Offset Warehouse. Hand woven, wholesale Indian fabrics from Offset Warehouse.

The young women no longer wear traditional Lambani dress except on special occasions, in ten years almost all will be sari wearers. Mass produced products now fill their houses, dowries and their practice, particularly where the embroidery is concerned is on the way out.  What place does this embroidery play today? SKKK is providing them with work, creating Indian style pieces for the West, but with the products they make being so far removed from the traditional work what is it that they are achieving? The craft is being diluted and removed from the authenticity of its origins, the Lambani women are neither maintaining their true tradition nor are their customers buying into anything real.

And what really struck me was the regard in which the women held their own work. The consumer products they produce have little meaning in their everyday life, clearly made for a buyer who does not inhabit the same world as they, and they feel little affinity with this work. Their own pieces mean much to them, still revered for special occasion, but they admit that the world has changed. More and more women from SKKK are laying down their needle in search of more lucrative work. And when asked what they hope for their children, embroidery is not high on the list, indeed many of the teenage generation and younger do not embroider to the skill of their mothers. For their daughters they wish an education, a ‘good’ job and more opportunities than they have had themselves. And who can blame them? I know firsthand what hard work it is to earn a living from hand sewing, hard work with, for these women, little financial reward and in these modern times, little cultural reward either.

So what is to become of these skills, should we strive to preserve them at the cost of educating a generation of women or are they culturally and economically failing, an inevitable casualty of technology and global economic development?

Josie is designer and co-founder of THREAD, and one of our sign up to our newsletter, and to find out more about becoming an Offsetter, check out our "Get Involved" page.

I only buy thirteen garments a year...

We may have had a stand, but that didn't stop our Offsetter, Rhiannon, heading down to the "Ethical Fashion In The Age of Austerity" event last Thursday, armed with camera and notepad, to get all the goss!

Last Thursday I was invited to attend, ‘Ethical Fashion in the Age of Austerity’.  I headed to the talk, "Is Fashion Wearing Out The World?", one of the many talks on that evening.

A panel discussion with eco columnist Lucy Siegle, Think Act Vote founder Amisha Ghadiali, Labour Behind The Label’s Hannah Higginson and the managing director of Ethical Fashion Forum Tamsin Lejeune, the talk began with Lucy Siegle plugging her up and coming book ‘To Die For’ (coming out May 12th).

Lucy has recently been involved in a green carpet challenge with Colin Firths wife, Livia.  The challenge, as the name would suggest, to be dressed "green" for every event (of which, thanks to Colin's roaring success in the King's Speech, there were many).  Her most recent adornment, was created from eleven different gowns from the "King's Speech” era.  It turns out, both Livia and Colin are very eco-conscious, and this is not, in fact, the first time she has hit the carpet a dress made from upcycled garments; last year she wore an original design by Orsola de Castro's label 'From Somewhere’, which upcycles textiles into fabulous new dresses.

Due to the changes in the industry, Lucy has had to re-write her book three times!  It poses some poignant questions: How can we afford not to have ethical fashion, and how can we incorporate it into the fashion industry?

The book also discusses revolutionising the wardrobeand investing in clothing; instead of buying five ten pound items, that will not last long, we should buy one fifty pound item.

In my opinion, fashion has such a large eco-footprint, it is about time that someone started suggesting ideas on how we as consumers can help keep that footprint to a minimum.

Lucy then opened up the discussion to us audience.  The questions people asked created interesting discussion: one member even fearlessly admitted she was a little confused with what all the buzz words, like "ethical" and "sustainable", actually mean and what they mean in relation to the products that we buy.

© (2011) Maciej Groman

Amisha Ghadiali revealed that she has cut down her shopping to buying just thirteen items of clothing a year!

As someone who loves their shopping, this shocked me.  I couldn’t imagine buying only thirteen items per year.  Then I began to think about my wardrobe and I began to see her point - I realised, half of the items I have bought I don’t even or wear!!

© (2011) Offset Warehouse

Although *add disclosure here*, when I do have a wardrobe clearout, I never throw garments away, I always donate my clothing to charity.  Giving to charity is far friendlier in every which way!

Overall I left the discussion feeling much more aware of ethical fashion and what it is all about.

I then pottered on to have a look at the stalls and see what it had to offer.  There were several different workshops taking place around the museum, such as, how to repair your clothing and make them last longer, making accessories out of different items such as tie headbands, how to transform old jumpers into hats and you could also add your own square to their ethical quilt with Polly Hope.

© (2011) Offset Warehouse

There were several stalls about as well, selling different and unique items such as tie headbands, silk scarves, ethical materials and components, and broaches made from tape measures.  Of course, I couldn't help but stop by the pink, Offset Warehouse stand, laden with eco-goodies and ethical fabrics!

I made sure I picked up lots of cards and information, so I could check out websites and maybe even purchase a few bits 'n bobs (not exceeding my thirteen items a year threshold of course!) !

Overall the evening was extremely interesting and fulfilling, and I left with a different take on the fashion industry than I had when I came in!  Fantastic!

Rhiannon is one of our "Offsetters"!

Our ”Offsetters” are a group of writers, comprising of anyone who has a personal passion for ethical development.  Through short updates, they inspire us to be ethical by giving us a taste of exciting people and news they’ve come across, and letting us know about interesting things we don't already!

To be kept informed of all our competitions, sign up to our newsletter, and to find out more about becoming an Offsetter,check out our "Get Involved" page.

Rhiannon, Offsetter.

Become An Offsetter: http://bit.ly/esijRm

Josie's Estethica Round Up...

Saturday morning dawns grey, and it’s raining.  As I scurry towards Somerset House, home of London Fashion Week, trying to avoid the dreaded drizzle-hair, people begin to look more beautifully dressed with every step and there’s a palpable excitement in the air.

It’s London Fashion Week and for me, previously to be found scampering around backstage clutching pins, it’s my first time front of house.

I’m given my pass by Offset Warehouse’s Charlie Ross and whisked up to the Estethica section. It’s clearly a busy time and it was great to catch a few minutes with her before she hurried off to another interview.

This marks Estethica’s fifth year at LFW and it’s going strong (I‘m sure it’s not only the lure of champagne that’s drawing the crowds!).

The room is heaving and there are some great pieces; Pachacuti’s new collection, effortlessly stylish as ever, and the unusual technique of Antonello’s bags are great examples of craft skills translated into high end fashion. And it’s hard to believe that Kumvana Gomani’s striking necklaces used to be industrial catering packaging!
But my favourite has to be the collection by Study NY, from New York designer Tara St James.

Rich knits, naturally coloured silks and luxurious reclaimed woollens create a sophisticated and very wearable collection, showcasing the versatility of both the designer and ethical fashion. St James tells me of her desire to not only use sustainable fabrics in her garments but to generate socio-economic benefits through their production.  What cannot be made in New York is sourced from cooperatives around the globe ensuring a fair wage for skilled labour, such as her Alpaca hand knits produced in Peru: she is surely one to watch.

Through the crowds I manage a quick chat with From Somewhere designer and Estethica curator Orsola de Castro to ask about the new collaboration with Speedo. Working on upcycling surplus LZR technical racing fabric Orsola’s creativity shines through and the results are stunning, sporting a floor length number herself she tells me how much she has enjoyed the project and that the fabric has been a dream to work with.
And if you want to bag a designer creation for yourself be sure to log on to asos.com on February 28th when the Fairtrade Foundation will be launching their limited edition scarf collection. A collaboration with Estethica designers to encourage labels to be more creative with their use of organic cotton, the scarves are sure to disappear fast so get that mouse ready.

I admit to being a little apprehensive of an ‘ethical fashion section’ fearing exhibitors would be overlooked by buyers who do not have a product’s ethical credentials top of their tick list. But the quality from the designers ensures the Estethica area flows with ease between the rambling corridors of Somerset House, and with the party in full swing I reluctantly retreat.
On my way out I overhear the doorman tell a slightly annoyed Fashionisto,

‘It’s so crowded it’s not even one in one out I’m afraid’.

Surely a sign for the future of Estethica and the pioneering ethical fashion lines it represents...

Josie was this season's Estethica competition winner and is also now one of our "Offsetters"!

Our ”Offsetters” are a group of writers, comprising of anyone who has a personal passion for ethical development.  Through short updates, they inspire us to be ethical by giving us a taste of exciting people and news they’ve come across, and letting us know about interesting things we don't already!

To be kept informed of all our competitions, sign up to our newsletter, and to find out more about becoming an Offsetter, check out our "Get Involved" page.

Ethical Fashion Interview With Offset Warehouse Director

Radio host, Devika Misra, interviews Director of Offset Warehouse, Charlie Ross, on ethical fashion, where Charlie presents her thoughts on the state of ethical fashion today alongside some surprising facts and statistics

For all you need to be ethical in fashion and interiors ... www.offsetwarehouse.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1UV5E2faYw&feature=player_profilepage

FACTORY EQUIPMENT & MACHINERY SALE - Currently at crazy cheap prices & all must go...

CLOSING DOWN SALE: 

Factory equipment for fashion and footwear manufacture being sold at RIDICULOUSLY cheap prices.

Factory based in Northampton, UK.  Factory visits to inspect machinery are welcome.
Please get in touch for a full list of items left:  info(@)offsetwarehouse.com

Amongst other items, there are :

• Lasts:
  • About 200 pairs being sold off in sets of 16 from sizes 5-12
  • firecrash boots for firemen – easy to slip on
  • Slight modified, bulbous toe to make room for steel-toe cap
  • Most are wood (some plastic)
  • 1/3 of buying price = £160 for 16 pairs
  • Images available

• Spares-or-repair Svit eyeletting machine, which moves a material, punches & eyelets. You might have to make or track-down a part. It's a small stand-alone machine.

• Small table-top machine which will move a strap or roll of labels a precise length before cutting.

• Couple of hem-folding machines for to use after applying glue or before sewing a thick material I think. They are the same sort of size as sewing machines and could probably be adapted to use with a treadle rather than a motor.

• There are a lot of heavy duty sewing machines including ones with cylinder and post-beds for sewing odd shapes. Some are built-in to desks; some are stacked-up on shelves.

• There's a huge press with microwave attachment which can cut and iron-together at the same time. Good for lined footwear vamps or synthetic wallets, folders, things made of plastic sheet or an odd sort of mesh insole for hot climates that it used to make (rolls of material available).  It’d have to be dismantled enough to go in the lift; loading bay available. There is another buyer but they’re a scrap dealer who might charge to collect.

• There's a long roll of thick dark blue cotton or linen with the name of the supplier to get more, among a selection of other fabrics stiffeners and such.

• There is a lot of dexion and chipboard, possibly thick cutting boards, and at least a hundred seconds in various boot designs.

Starting A Fashion Label?

It Couldn’t Be Easier Being Ethical…

OffsetWarehouse.com is an essential resource for start-up fashion designers and businesses, bringing together everything needed to both create fabulous, ethical clothing and buy them!

Offset Warehouse is the only business of its kind globally, where you can source ethical fabrics on both a retail and wholesale level in their Fabric & Haberdashery Shop, and find the ethical businesses and freelancers you need to complete your vision in their Ethical Directory.

Not only this, but Offset Warehouse presents a huge number of resources – whether you’re starting a business and don’t understand the implications of non-organic cotton, or you’re trying to become Fairtrade accredited, the Resources area will have something for you. Still can’t find the information you’re looking for? The Offset Warehouse team will find it for you! Amazing!

Research shows that companies can fail in the first few years because directors simply don’t delegate the jobs they are no good at. If you’re no good at design – get a designer! If you can’t use photoshop to create an eye-catching advert or logo – then get a graphic designer! Through their Consultancy, Offset Warehouse makes the process easy by understanding what you need, finding the most suitable professional for the job, often Masters and PhD holders, and completing your brief to the full, AND doing it to YOUR budget. Fantastic!

Starting out can be tough financially, so if you can’t afford a consultant, Offset Warehouse have started this amazing new “referrals” scheme, where they can refer you to the people you need – be it ethical manufacturers and producers or freelancers, at no cost to you – they simply ask for a small commission from the supplier for generating them business.

Start-ups and new businesses should definitely check it out. And who knows, once you’ve done all that hard work, they may even stock your line in their Boutique! Triple bonus!!

www.offsetwarehouse.com
info(@)offsetwarehouse.com